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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.